Nan Shepherd
Publisher: Canongate Books
Date of Publication: October 2019 (my edition); first published January 1977
Hiking nowadays is a bit of a science. Food and water required are calculated based on duration and elevation. Duration and elevation are calculated based on exercise completed during the past week and earlier. Different gear is marketed to every conceivable type of hiker. All that calculation and preparation can impart more of a sense of conquest than contemplation. Nan Shepherd’s version of hiking was not a science. It was hardly even hiking. It was an expression of love for her mountains, Scotland’s Cairngorms, a quiet, open, enraptured investigation. The Living Mountain is a snapshot of Shepherd’s mountains in all seasons and all conditions, an effort to describe and understand the Cairngorms as a living and unpredictably tutelary entity.
Shepherd’s work, though just topping 100 pages, reads like Guinness and chocolate cake: rich, seductive, almost too much for the palate to take in one sitting. It was almost too much for Shepherd, too; though she spent most of her life on, or in the shadow of, her Cairngorms, it took her more than three decades to publish what she wrote. “[I]t is to know [the plateau’s] essential nature that I am seeking here,” she writes on the first page, claiming her quest as one almost spiritual in its honesty and intensity. From this quest, her prose takes on a variety of qualities. She explains to the experientially impoverished the mountains’ fickle and illusory shifts of fog and distance, and how to walk on certain grasses barefoot. She can be as lyrical as a bard about sleeping outdoors, and whispers, awed, of her encounters with birds and deer. Her writing gives a sense of frustration with the limits of human language and speech to convey the full scope of her physical and perceptual encounters. Yet her writing also shares a sense of intense joy from being able to write about the Cairngorms, a joy of being able to translate her experiences and wonder into words.
Shepherd’s writing, like her treks, is both enriching and almost exquisitely wearying, both dense and lighthearted. Her physical and linguistic exertions focus outward, reaching for her own comprehension even as she reaches for her readers’ attention. This is not to say she is without moments of simple joy and fear, wandering barefoot in summer or caught in a freak blizzard in winter. But her book is meant to create soft feelings for a hard rise of earth, a sensitivity to more than a sensitivity for[ku2.1] a landscape that nurtures and destroys in ambivalent, unpredictable turn. She is necessarily rooted in her own body, but her understanding of the Cairngorms is formed by constantly probing the capabilities, the joys, and furthest stretches of her physical and perceptual limits. She extends herself into the mountains, learning them by devoted attention and immersion.
The Living Mountain is a devotional. It is romantic, but it is also pragmatic, an invitational acceptance of those who open themselves to landscapes, as Shepherd has, and a dismissal of those who see mountains only as finite, conquerable points. Read it in bites. Savor this locally sourced single malt distillation of Shepherd’s lifelong sense of deeply rooted wonder.